Farmstead Raised Garden Bed

Questions about the Farmstead Raised Garden Bed

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• From Dave at 6/2/11 5:13 PM
  • We have 2 ( 8' x 4' )planter boxes stacked and it is setting on unlevel ground. To bring the boxes level we used paver bricks like retaining wall around under and in the ground. Places were we have 3 level of pavers we use retaining wall glue, so they would not shift. I though I might need to glue pavers on the inside of the box to keep them from moving off the top bricks, or will just filling with dirt keep it from moving.
    
    Thanks
    Dave
  • The weight of the soil in the beds will keep them from moving. No problem.
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• From sarah at 5/11/11 12:26 PM
  • These look fantastic. We want to grow raspberries. Any experience or advice to give us about the viability of this in raised beds?
    
    Thanks.
    
    - Sarah
  • Raspberries will do well in raised beds. Raised beds also have the benefit of providing a solid frame on which to build a suppot for netting. You will likely want to net rasberries from the birds.
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• From James at 4/30/11 10:22 AM
  • Your raised garden bed is exactly what I am looking for to start a vegetable garden with my grandson in the back yard of my suburban home in So. Cal. What type and how much garden soil do you recommend that Iorder to adequately fill two stacked 4’x6’ beds?
  • Soil building is really what gardening is all about, so you'll want to experiment and learn what works best in your region.
    
    You Farmstead beds will hold about 50 cubic feet of soil, and will be deep enough to grow just about any vegetables you want.
    
    For soil. I would start by seeing what is already available. If you have some 'dirt' in your yard , that can be the basis from which to build. If you go out any buy a big load of dirt, ask the vendor about it. Where did it come from? Is there any organic material in it?
    
    Fill your beds 2/3 to 3/4 with the basic soil, whether from your yard or from a supplier. Then assess if for aeration (is it light and fluffy, or is it heavy and sodden). You will likely want to add peat to lighten and help aerate it. You may have your soil tested for ph (it's a good idea but we have never done it ourselves), and most likely you will need to add some lime. Dolomite lime breaks down fast. You should invest in a sack of rock phosphate (it will last years) and add some of this vital element to your soil. Finally, for fertilizer, you can add some of your compost (if you have a composter), or something like composted steer manure or canola meal. (We use canola meal.) Once these additions have been added, let the bed mellow for a week or so before planting your seeds or starter seedlings. And finally, once the seedlings are established, I recommend adding mulch to ensure steady moist growing conditions and to reduce the need for weeding.
    
    It sounds like a lot of work and expense, but it is easier than I am making it sound. The amendments you buy will last a long time. Soon you will have garden waste from which to build compost and then you are independent of the need to buy fertilizers.
    
    Good luck!
    
    Greg
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• From Suzanne at 4/14/11 1:45 PM
  • I would like to Trellis my tomatoes and would like to know if you have any suggestions or add ons that would be as pleasing to the eye as your raised beds are. ??????
  • We do not provide a trellis designed to go with the Farmstead beds. Because the beds are sturdy, and the wood is thick, it's pretty easy to fashion your own trellis, or cover, using cedar 1" x 2" boards which can be screwed or nailed directly into the inside face of the beds. (Screws are better since it's easier to remove the structure when rotating crops.)
    
    You can use a trellis, wire tomato cages, or simple stakes to grow tomatoes. I suggest that whichever method you use, that providing a cover for the plants will give you better results. Tomatoes left without shelter from the rain often succomb to tomato blight.
    
    In our gardens, we prefer to grow tomatoes using inexpensive wire cages for the smaller varieties like cherry tomatoes, and we use 5' stakes for the full-size plants which have heavier fruit. I find this is the fastest, easiest and cheapest system for growing tomatoes. Take a look at this article, and scroll down the page till you see our tomato 'shelter'. This has worked very well, and it's easy to lift and move as we rotate crops each season. Here is the link:
    http://eartheasy.com/blog/2011/03/raised-beds-preparing-your-garden-beds-for-spring/
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• From Scott at 4/14/11 10:27 AM
  • If the bed is set directly on level ground, is a single level deep enough to grow tomato, pepper, peas and bean plants?
  • Yes. Before setting your bed in place, you should turn the soil in the ground beneath the bed, and you might even add some amendments such as peat, lime and rock phosphate. The roots of your plants can then go deeper than the actual bed height, which will benefit the crops you want to grow. Drainage will also be improved.
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• From Peggy at 4/13/11 4:33 PM
  • I want to plant tomatoes and corn - how deep does the planter need to be? What about flowers?
  • If you are setting your raised bed on the ground, so that the plant roots have a bit more depth if needed, then an 11" tall bed is sufficient in depth to grow tomatoes and corn. Flowers can also grow in this depth of soil easily.
    
    Having said this, I have not had good results growing corn in raised beds. Corn doesn't seem to do as well in small patches, and it is also a heavy feeder. We found that it took too much effort to get a good corn crop, and the price of corn at the farmer stands is very cheap. We prefer to give the garden space to other crops which bring us more savings. Here is an article I wrote about the most "cost-effective" vegetable crops we have grown. You might want to grow one or more of these crops in your raised bed:
    http://eartheasy.com/blog/2011/01/top-6-most-cost-effective-vegetables-to-grow/
    
    Greg
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• From Heather at 4/9/11 7:07 AM
  • Can you help me with what I will need to put in my beds for the best vegetable results? I will be placing 2 stacked 8' beds on my back lawn and am assuming I should lay down a drainage layer, like coarse gravel? Then what soil matter should I add? is it a mix or something I just buy at the local home depot in bags. I would assume it is a bit costly to fill 16" of 4 x 8 beds.....
  • You do not need to add a drainage layer of gravel if you are putting your bed on the ground where there is soil beneath.
    
    Building soil is the gardener's art. You can start by adding 'dirt' from your yard to fill much of the bed space. You will need to appraise your soil for needed amendments. For example, you will probably want to add some peat moss to lighten the soil, and lime to balance the ph. You can have a soil test to determine the soil ph in your region, or ask a gardener nearby what the general soil characteristics are in your area.
    
    You will likely need to add a bit of rock phosphate. For organic materials, the best amendment is compost. If you don't have compost, you can buy some commercially and you can also add steer manure.
    
    It will take one or two growing cycles for you to adequately assess your soil and build it with the ideal amendments that work in your region. Here is an article with more information about getting started with your garden:
    http://eartheasy.com/grow_backyard_vegetable_garden.html
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• From Jean at 4/8/11 11:41 AM
  • I'm a 63 year old female and these look to be quite manageable. I plan to join two frames. Our country yard is teeming with critters- rabbits, chipmunks, birds, squirrels, etc. Can you suggest a protective covering for the top that might not be too complicated to install?
    Thank you.
  • Hi Jean,
    I assume you mean some kind of fencing.
    There are some fence styles designed to sit on top of raised beds. You could use chicken wire (1" mesh) and try to fashion a fence like this one:http://eartheasy.com/yard-garden/raised-garden-beds-kits-planters/raised-garden-bed-rabbit-fence-4-x-8-x-23
    (The fence in this picture is designed to sit on the "compostire raised beds".
    The problem with this design is that critters will push against it and find any weak spots to get in. I think you're better off making an enclosure, at least 4' high (or higher if deer are present), that you can walk into. Then the critters can't get near your raised bed.
    Greg
    
    
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• From Cornelia at 4/1/11 12:29 PM
  • just got my raised beds. does the wood need to be treated prior to use?
  • Hi Cornelia,
    The Farmstead Raised Gadren Bed is ready to use. You do not need to treat the wood.
    Greg
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• From Meghan at 4/1/11 7:45 AM
  • I just had 5 of the 4x8x8's delivered and I cant wait to try them this weekend. What I did notice in the video was that you had a few hens. I have 2 questions about gardens + chickens. 1) Whats the best way that you found to keep your chickens out of the raised beds? 2) Do you have any tips for composting their droppings? I have a bin full off straw and droppings that just will not breakdown properly.
  • Hi Meghan,
    We used to let the chickens into the vegetable garden in early spring where they would go onto the beds and pull any weed sprouts, and their droppings would benefit the garden soil. (Chickens don't eat slugs, unfortunately.) We don't do this anymore since they also disturb over-wintered crop beds like garlic and brassicas.
    
    Most people keep chickens in fenced runs. We let them range into the woods, so the garden fence has to be secure enough to keep out the chickens. This is pretty easy. I put up a simple fence made of fish net to keep the chickens from the vegetable beds.
    
    We value the dropppings highly! I keep a separate 'compost' just for the old straw with droppings. Fresh chicken manure is hot and needs time to mellow before using in the garden. We might let it sit 6 months or longer before using, or else we put it into developing bed which we don't intend to plant for a while. When left in a pile, we keep it covered with black plastic sheeting, which is removed occasionally so the pile can be watered. Some of the droppings are added to oour regular compost as an activator.
    Greg
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