The concept of drip irrigation systems is simple.
Tiny holes inserted at various points along a hose, allow small quantities of water to trickle slowly into the soil over long periods.

The disadvantage of sprinkler systems is that a lot of water is wasted, owing to evaporation of the spray droplets as they fly through the air. Drip irrigation systems use less water, because it is applied directly where the plants need it most.

Saves water . Studies show that drip irrigation systems use 30 - 50% less water than conventional watering methods, such as sprinklers.
Improves growth .Smaller amounts of water applied over a longer amount of time provide ideal growing conditions. Drip irrigation extends watering times for plants, and prevents soil erosion and nutrient runoff. Also, because the flow is continuous, water penetrates deeply into the soil to get well down into the root zone.
Discourages weeds. Water is only delivered where it's needed.
Saves time .Setting and moving sprinklers is not required. A timer can be added to the system for automatic watering.
Helps control fungal diseases, which grow quickly under moist conditions. Also, wet foliage can spread disease.
Adaptable .A drip irrigation system can be modified easily to adjust to the changing needs of a garden or lawn.

Sprinkler hoses are easy to install - just lay the hose on the ground and screw to the hose line. However, because they are flat it's more difficult to weave around tight curves. The spray can also cause erosion if the water pressure is too great.

Use "Y" connectors to add more lines. These are available in plastic or brass. Lay the hose on the ground and work it between plantings and along rows as desired. Be sure the hose ends are closed.

The advantages of an above-ground "soaker" system are low cost, ease of installation and ease of moving the system during cultivation and planting. And no assembly is required. The disadvantage is the less precise control of water distribution - the entire hose line is watered, not just specific spots along the line.

You can also use an automatic timer for this system. Ask at your local garden supply, or at the online links listed below, for more information regarding specific models and features.

Measure plot to determine how much tubing you'll need. These measurements don't have to be exact - the tubing comes in a large roll which is cut to length in place, as you go. The total run of submain, on any one circuit, should not exceed 400'. Note how many 'elbows' or 'tees' you'll need.

Decide where you want the emitters, and how many you'll need. Space emitters 12 - 20" apart depending on soil type. Sandy soil, for example, will require closer spacing than loamy soil. A 1 gph (gallon per hour) emitter will cover a 12" diameter in sandy soil. When installing the system, begin with just one emitter and test for wetness diameter. For large plantings, shrubs or trees, several emitters may be used around the planting to encourage the roots to grow outward in all directions.

Components for a snap-together system often come in kit form. Just show your plan, with measurements, to your drip irrigation supplier. Parts from different systems are usually interchangeable. The basic parts you'll need are:

..filter ................................... ...1/2" or 5/8" flexible polyethylene tubing (for submain)
..water pressure reducer.. .. .1/4" tubing with pre-punched holes (for drip lines)
..anti-siphon device.......... .. ..connecting 'tees' and 'elbows'
..emitters ....................... .........automatic timer (optional)

3. Attach emitters to the submain. Simply punch a hole using an awl or punch tool supplied with your drip kit, and push the barbed end of the emitter through. Install just one emitter at first, and run the water for one hour to test for wetting diameter. This will guide you in spacing the emitters for watering coverage. Don't forget to cap or crimp the end of the submain before testing.

5. Install "drip lines" (right) for area watering of flower beds and ground covers. Simply punch a hole in the submain and snap on the drip line using small connectors which come with the drip line.
Drip lines emit 1/2 gph through holes spaced about one foot apart.

• Prior to installation, leave tubing in the sun for awhile to warm.
• Small plastic stoppers , also called "goof plugs", can be used to plug the holes on the submain if you decide to remove emitters from any section of the system.
• Reduce watering need by planting near a low hedge or wind barrier. Reducing the wind will reduce water loss by evaporation.
• Don't overwater. One inch of water per week will suffice for plants with average water requirements. A 1 gph emitter will deliver this amount of water in about one hour. Hot climates often require the equivalent of 2" per week of rainwater. It's best to water deeply, but infrequently. There should be no puddles around the emitters.
• Check your system by sticking a pencil or sharpened stick into the soil between emitters to see if moisture is present. If the soil is moist, the stick will slip easily into the ground. It's easy to add emitters, or change their spacing.
• Drip irrigation systems left above ground tend to clog less than buried systems, and they are easy to lift when cultivating or planting. Cover the soil with mulch to conceal the tubing and further reduce evaporation. If you are going to bury the system, leave the trenches unfilled until you've tested the completed system. Make a diagram of the system if buried.
• If you live in a colder climate, drain your system at season's end. Simply unplug the end stoppers, or fold open the crimped end of the lines. Tie a plastic or cloth wrap over the open end of the line to keep it free of debris and bugs. Draining the line prevents any breakage due to freezing. Store the filter, pressure reducer and timer indoors for the winter.
• If your garden has raised beds, you can use 'elbows' and 'tees' to lead branch lines up into the bed.

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