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Farmstead Raised Garden Bed

Item #: FARM-C

Our price: $79.95

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An elegant age-old design for raised garden beds. Farmstead garden beds are hand crafted from Vermont White Cedar, which will last for many years and weather to a soft silver grey. For taller beds, order two or more kits of the same size and stack them. Measured from tips of corners, interior dimensions smaller. read more

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Our price: $79.95



Details

Farmstead raised garden beds are based on a 17th century design and handcrafted from Vermont White Cedar. These raised beds are perfect for growing vegetables and flowers, and the versatile design suits any landscape.

Strong and functional

Lumber is custom sawed to a thickness of 1¼ inches for greater strength and longer life. With cedar slot and peg design these raised beds cannot pull apart, as may happen with beds that are nailed or screwed together. Pegs are made from black locust wood. Wood is not sanded or treated, so it has an unfinished rustic quality.

No chemical wood preservatives

Unlike pressure-treated lumber, there are no harmful chemicals to leach into your soil. If you want to treat wood naturally, we recommend Eco Wood Treatment - a non-toxic, mineral-based formula safe for vegetable gardens.

Stack them higher and save your back

Wooden boards are 8 inches deep, which positions the garden 8 inches above the ground. They can be stacked 2, 3, or 4 high for raised beds that are 16", 24", or 32" high. For example, if you want a 16" high raised bed just purchase two kits of the same size and stack them.

Q: When stacking the Farmstead raised garden beds, what holds them together?

A: The weight of the soil within the beds holds them in place on top of each other and it will keep them from shifting if on level ground. Although it is not necessary, it is easy to bracket the beds together with some inexpensive hardware or wood from a local store.

Interior Dimensions:

Use interior measurements to calculate planting area

  • 2’ W x 4’ L = 1¼ x 3¼ ft. (4.1 sq. ft.)
  • 2’ W x 6’ L = 1¼ x 5¼ ft. (6.6 sq. ft.)
  • 2’ W x 8’ L = 1¼ x 7¼ ft. (9.1 sq. ft.)
  • 3’ W x 3’ L = 2¼ x 2¼ ft. (5.1 sq. ft.)
  • 3’ W x 5’ L = 2¼ x 4¼ ft. (9.6 sq. ft.)
  • 3’ W x 8’ L = 2¼ x 7¼ ft. (16.3 sq. ft.)
  • 4’ W x 4’ L = 3¼ x 3¼ ft. (10.6 sq. ft.)
  • 4’ W x 6’ L = 3¼ x 5¼ ft. (17.1 sq. ft.)
  • 4’ W x 8’ L = 3¼ x 7¼ ft. (23.6 sq. ft.)

Assembly:

Watch our video on the left! It takes less than five minutes to assemble these raised beds. No tools are required. Simply slip the end of one board through the slot of the other and secure with provided wooden pegs.

Raised beds can be placed directly on sod, lawn, or even a weedy patch. Once the bed is filled with soil, any weeds underneath will soon form a composted base. For best results, you may want to dig down a few inches to clear any large rocks. Fill with soil and your garden is ready to go!

100% Satisfaction Guarantee

We want you to be completely satisfied with every purchase you make. If you are in any way dissatisfied with a product you ordered, we'll exchange it, replace it or refund your money within 30 days of purchase. Simply email us the problem, and we'll take care of you. Certain products have extended warranties (up to 50 years!) that are listed on the particular product page. Please call us at 1-888-451-6752 if you need further clarification.

Additional Information

Material Vermont White Cedar
Board Thickness 1.25"
Planting Depth 8"
Key Feature Easy to assemble, mortise and tenon raised garden beds
Assembly TIme 10 Minutes
Origin Made in the U.S.A.

Shipping Information

Shipping Details:
Insured against damage or loss while in transit
This Product Ships To:
US Lower 48
Ships Via:
Fedex or UPS

Questions about the Farmstead Raised Garden Bed

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  • From Evan at 6/19/11 12:47 PM
    • I would like to stack a 4x4 box in the center of a 4x8 box to create a deep center box with two narrow, shallow boxes on either side. Will your boxes support this kind of setup? or are there any protruding edges etc that might make stacking them this way unstable?

      Thanks.
    • You can arrange the beds in the way you describe to get a "two-step" raised bed effect. It's a nice looking layout. You will have no problems at all with these beds. They will be planty stable without needing any modifications.
    • Do you find this question helpful?  Yes  No
  • From Dave at 6/2/11 5:13 PM
    • We have 2 ( 8' x 4' )planter boxes stacked and it is setting on unlevel ground. To bring the boxes level we used paver bricks like retaining wall around under and in the ground. Places were we have 3 level of pavers we use retaining wall glue, so they would not shift. I though I might need to glue pavers on the inside of the box to keep them from moving off the top bricks, or will just filling with dirt keep it from moving.

      Thanks
      Dave
    • The weight of the soil in the beds will keep them from moving. No problem.
    • Do you find this question helpful?  Yes  No
  • From sarah at 5/11/11 12:26 PM
    • These look fantastic. We want to grow raspberries. Any experience or advice to give us about the viability of this in raised beds?

      Thanks.

      - Sarah
    • Raspberries will do well in raised beds. Raised beds also have the benefit of providing a solid frame on which to build a suppot for netting. You will likely want to net rasberries from the birds.
    • Do you find this question helpful?  Yes  No
  • From James at 4/30/11 10:22 AM
    • Your raised garden bed is exactly what I am looking for to start a vegetable garden with my grandson in the back yard of my suburban home in So. Cal. What type and how much garden soil do you recommend that Iorder to adequately fill two stacked 4’x6’ beds?
    • Soil building is really what gardening is all about, so you'll want to experiment and learn what works best in your region.

      You Farmstead beds will hold about 50 cubic feet of soil, and will be deep enough to grow just about any vegetables you want.

      For soil. I would start by seeing what is already available. If you have some 'dirt' in your yard , that can be the basis from which to build. If you go out any buy a big load of dirt, ask the vendor about it. Where did it come from? Is there any organic material in it?

      Fill your beds 2/3 to 3/4 with the basic soil, whether from your yard or from a supplier. Then assess if for aeration (is it light and fluffy, or is it heavy and sodden). You will likely want to add peat to lighten and help aerate it. You may have your soil tested for ph (it's a good idea but we have never done it ourselves), and most likely you will need to add some lime. Dolomite lime breaks down fast. You should invest in a sack of rock phosphate (it will last years) and add some of this vital element to your soil. Finally, for fertilizer, you can add some of your compost (if you have a composter), or something like composted steer manure or canola meal. (We use canola meal.) Once these additions have been added, let the bed mellow for a week or so before planting your seeds or starter seedlings. And finally, once the seedlings are established, I recommend adding mulch to ensure steady moist growing conditions and to reduce the need for weeding.

      It sounds like a lot of work and expense, but it is easier than I am making it sound. The amendments you buy will last a long time. Soon you will have garden waste from which to build compost and then you are independent of the need to buy fertilizers.

      Good luck!

      Greg
    • Do you find this question helpful?  Yes  No
  • From Suzanne at 4/14/11 1:45 PM
    • I would like to Trellis my tomatoes and would like to know if you have any suggestions or add ons that would be as pleasing to the eye as your raised beds are. ??????
    • We do not provide a trellis designed to go with the Farmstead beds. Because the beds are sturdy, and the wood is thick, it's pretty easy to fashion your own trellis, or cover, using cedar 1" x 2" boards which can be screwed or nailed directly into the inside face of the beds. (Screws are better since it's easier to remove the structure when rotating crops.)

      You can use a trellis, wire tomato cages, or simple stakes to grow tomatoes. I suggest that whichever method you use, that providing a cover for the plants will give you better results. Tomatoes left without shelter from the rain often succomb to tomato blight.

      In our gardens, we prefer to grow tomatoes using inexpensive wire cages for the smaller varieties like cherry tomatoes, and we use 5' stakes for the full-size plants which have heavier fruit. I find this is the fastest, easiest and cheapest system for growing tomatoes. Take a look at this article, and scroll down the page till you see our tomato 'shelter'. This has worked very well, and it's easy to lift and move as we rotate crops each season. Here is the link:
      http://eartheasy.com/blog/2011/03/raised-beds-preparing-your-garden-beds-for-spring/
    • Do you find this question helpful?  Yes  No
  • From Scott at 4/14/11 10:27 AM
    • If the bed is set directly on level ground, is a single level deep enough to grow tomato, pepper, peas and bean plants?
    • Yes. Before setting your bed in place, you should turn the soil in the ground beneath the bed, and you might even add some amendments such as peat, lime and rock phosphate. The roots of your plants can then go deeper than the actual bed height, which will benefit the crops you want to grow. Drainage will also be improved.
    • Do you find this question helpful?  Yes  No
  • From Peggy at 4/13/11 4:33 PM
    • I want to plant tomatoes and corn - how deep does the planter need to be? What about flowers?
    • If you are setting your raised bed on the ground, so that the plant roots have a bit more depth if needed, then an 11" tall bed is sufficient in depth to grow tomatoes and corn. Flowers can also grow in this depth of soil easily.

      Having said this, I have not had good results growing corn in raised beds. Corn doesn't seem to do as well in small patches, and it is also a heavy feeder. We found that it took too much effort to get a good corn crop, and the price of corn at the farmer stands is very cheap. We prefer to give the garden space to other crops which bring us more savings. Here is an article I wrote about the most "cost-effective" vegetable crops we have grown. You might want to grow one or more of these crops in your raised bed:
      http://eartheasy.com/blog/2011/01/top-6-most-cost-effective-vegetables-to-grow/

      Greg
    • Do you find this question helpful?  Yes  No
  • From Heather at 4/9/11 7:07 AM
    • Can you help me with what I will need to put in my beds for the best vegetable results? I will be placing 2 stacked 8' beds on my back lawn and am assuming I should lay down a drainage layer, like coarse gravel? Then what soil matter should I add? is it a mix or something I just buy at the local home depot in bags. I would assume it is a bit costly to fill 16" of 4 x 8 beds.....
    • You do not need to add a drainage layer of gravel if you are putting your bed on the ground where there is soil beneath.

      Building soil is the gardener's art. You can start by adding 'dirt' from your yard to fill much of the bed space. You will need to appraise your soil for needed amendments. For example, you will probably want to add some peat moss to lighten the soil, and lime to balance the ph. You can have a soil test to determine the soil ph in your region, or ask a gardener nearby what the general soil characteristics are in your area.

      You will likely need to add a bit of rock phosphate. For organic materials, the best amendment is compost. If you don't have compost, you can buy some commercially and you can also add steer manure.

      It will take one or two growing cycles for you to adequately assess your soil and build it with the ideal amendments that work in your region. Here is an article with more information about getting started with your garden:
      http://eartheasy.com/grow_backyard_vegetable_garden.html
    • Do you find this question helpful?  Yes  No
  • From Jean at 4/8/11 11:41 AM
    • I'm a 63 year old female and these look to be quite manageable. I plan to join two frames. Our country yard is teeming with critters- rabbits, chipmunks, birds, squirrels, etc. Can you suggest a protective covering for the top that might not be too complicated to install?
      Thank you.
    • Hi Jean,
      I assume you mean some kind of fencing.
      There are some fence styles designed to sit on top of raised beds. You could use chicken wire (1" mesh) and try to fashion a fence like this one:http://eartheasy.com/yard-garden/raised-garden-beds-kits-planters/raised-garden-bed-rabbit-fence-4-x-8-x-23
      (The fence in this picture is designed to sit on the "compostire raised beds".
      The problem with this design is that critters will push against it and find any weak spots to get in. I think you're better off making an enclosure, at least 4' high (or higher if deer are present), that you can walk into. Then the critters can't get near your raised bed.
      Greg

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  • From Cornelia at 4/1/11 12:29 PM
    • just got my raised beds. does the wood need to be treated prior to use?
    • Hi Cornelia,
      The Farmstead Raised Gadren Bed is ready to use. You do not need to treat the wood.
      Greg
    • Do you find this question helpful?  Yes  No

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Farmstead Raised Garden Beds 

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  • Farmstead Raised Garden Beds
  • 3'x8' bed pictured here
  • 4' x 4' Farmstead raised bed (stacked two levels high)
  • 4' x 8' Farmstead raised bed (stacked two levels high)
  • Available in multiple sizes (beds pictured here are stacked two levels high)
  • Mortise & tenon construction
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