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Wildflower Farm's Eco-Lawn Grass Seed - 5 lb

Item #: W5500

Our price: $39.95

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Made from a blend of fine fescue grasses, this low maintenance and drought-resistant grass requires mowing only once per month. Seeds available in 5lb bag with 1,000 square feet coverage. read more

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Eco-Lawn™ is a proprietary blend of fine fescue grasses that produce a healthy thick green lawn with minimal care. Eco-Lawn grows in full sun, part shade and even deep shade. Eco-Lawn is highly drought tolerant once established, does not require fertilizing, and requires less maintenance. It is slow growing so it reduces mowing time by 50%. No other lawn seed blend on the market has the same carefully selected seed mix. Experience what thousands of people across North America already know about Eco-Lawn!

Features & Benefits:

  • Environmentally friendly
  • Drought tolerant
  • No fertilizers or chemicals required
  • Less vulnerable to grubs
  • Reduce your mowing time or don't mow at all
  • Eco-Lawn saves you time and money

What species are in Eco-Lawn?

  • Sheeps Fescue, Shoreline Slender Fescue, Navigator II Creeping Red Fescue, Jasper II Creeping Red Fescue, SR5130 Chewings Fescue, SR3210 Blue Fescue, SR3150 Hard Fescue

When is the best time to plant Eco-Lawn?

Click here for the Eco-Lawn Seeding Time Chart.

In the Northern USA and Canada the ideal time for you to plant your Eco-Lawn seed is between late August and late September, Labor Day Weekend is ideal (for the best seeding time in your specific area please refer to our Seeding Times Chart ). The cool evening temperatures, early morning dews and autumn rains create the perfect conditions for germination and growth. Also, nature has programmed fewer weeds to germinate in fall, so your new Eco-Lawn will establish more rapidly, with less weed competition!

Seeding from mid April through mid June is a good second choice. Maximum germination occurs when temperatures are between 10°C (55°F) and 25°C (77°F). If you spread Eco-Lawn seed in cooler temperatures, it will not germinate until the soil temperature reaches 10°C (55°F).

In the southern states, Southern California and much of the southwest, November is generally the best time to sow the seed as this provides Eco-Lawn the opportunity to take advantage of the naturally cooler, moister conditions available at that time of year. Sowing Eco-Lawn in November also allows the turf to get established before it has to face the heat of summer (for the best seeding time in your specific area please refer to our Seeding Times Chart ).

Using Eco-Lawn:

Establishing a new Eco-Lawn:

Proper soil preparation is the key to success in creating a beautiful lawn that will last a lifetime. Taking shortcuts on site and soil preparation will often come back to haunt you with chronic lawn problems such as thatch, weeds and fungal diseases.

  • Eliminate all weeds existing on the site.
  • Remove all debris from the area to be seeded. Do not bury construction debris as this will cause problems later on.
  • Rototill the site to loosen the soil to a depth of 3 inches.
  • Ensure that there is a gentle grade sloping away from any buildings. Grades are very important as too steep a grade can cause erosion and loss of nutrients. A grade of one to two percent away from buildings is ideal (one to two feet per one hundred feet of land). Poor drainage can result in a water-logged lawn.
  • Rake the area to smooth the surface and create a good seed bed.
  • Spread a small amount of weed free, organic compost, a 1/4 inch layer equals 3/4 cu. yard for every 1,000 sq. ft. This will help to start the seeds and the compost will fertilize your lawn for a year. This also helps keep out future weeds and grubs.

Converting existing lawns to Eco-Lawn:

1) For a quick conversion you can apply an organic herbicide to your old lawn. There are now a number of food based organic herbicides on the market. Many kill plants in as little as three hours. Read the label carefully! Once your old lawn is dead, mow the dead grass as short as possible and then roughen the area by hard raking it. Then seed the area with Eco-Lawn or you can simply seed directly into the dead grass of your old lawn. If you opt to seed directly into the dead grass, please note that it will take about 8 weeks for your new Eco-Lawn to cover up the old dead grass and that your lawn will look brown during this period.

2) Alternatively, strip off the old lawn to a depth of 2 1/2 - 3 inches and remove it entirely. Then either lightly rototill the existing soil or give it a hard raking to create a seed bed. Then spread the seed, rake it into the soil and if possible, roll it flat with a lawn roller.

3) Another method is smother your existing lawn with 4 inches of new soil. This will kill off the old lawn underneath and you can simply spread your Eco-Lawn seed onto the new soil, rake it in and roll it. Please note that the drawback to this method is that when you purchase new soil, you have also just purchased someone else's weeds! You'll need to combat those weeds as described below.

Overseeding:

Simply overseeding an existing lawn with Eco-Lawn will not result in an instant conversion to a low maintenance Eco-Lawn as your existing lawn will continue to grow. However, if you were to overseed your old lawn each and every year for four to five years, it will become a true Eco-Lawn. In the meantime, you will need to regularly mow the existing lawn. So while this method will work, it does take time, patience and annual re-seeding. You can accelerate the conversion process by overseeding twice in a year. Check the Seeding Times Chart for the best times in your area.

Mow the existing lawn as short as possible. To one inch or less, preferably with dull mower blades as dull blades will damage the existing grass.

Remove thatch. Fall only: With a steel rake, deeply rake to loosen clippings, thatch, sticks and above ground roots (or rent a dethatcher for big lawns). For spring seedings, rake surface only (do not deep dethatch) to avoid bringing up weed seeds to the surface.

Rake the area again with a yard rake and remove grass clippings, stones and thatch.

Spread a small amount of organic compost, a 1/4 inch layer equals 3/4 cu. yard for every 1,000 sq. ft. This will help to start the seeds and the compost will fertilize your lawn for a year. This also helps keep out future weeds and grubs.

Sowing seed beneath trees:

While Eco-Lawn will germinate and grow under large trees, please remember that trees need and take a lot of water, so for the first full growing season, please continue to water your Eco-Lawn deeply under the "drip line" of the trees on a weekly basis. This will encourage the deep roots that Eco-Lawn develops to dig down deep. By next year, you should not need to water under the trees at all as your Eco-Lawn will be able to compete with the trees for the water that nature provides. Leaves from trees should be removed in the fall. Mowing them with a mulching mower is the easiest method. The nutrients from the mulched leaves are all the fertilizer your Eco-Lawn should need.

Slopes:

On steep, erosion-prone slopes Eco-Lawn should be mixed with with an annual rye grass for rapid soil stabilization. Add 1/2 LB annual ryegrass for every 1 pound of Eco-Lawn seed. When planting on slopes in the fall, plant no later than mid-September in northern climates to ensure sufficient growth of the nurse crop to hold the soil. On gentle slopes with no soil erosion, seeding with Eco-Lawn alone is fine.

Fall seedings:

In northern climates seeding Eco-Lawn in late season (dormant seeding) can be done very successfully. Careful soil preparation, weed control and good timing are essential with dormant fall plantings. The seeds should be planted in the late fall or early winter after a couple of hard frosts but before the ground is frozen. Seed planted in late October through December will germinate early the following spring. If there is any chance of erosion, a dormant seeding is not recommended. Planted in fall, your new lawn will grow rapidly the following spring.

Seed Installation:

Spread Eco-Lawn seed at 15 seeds per sq. inch (a 5 lb bag covers 1000 sq ft) or spread the seed extra thick at 25 seeds per square inch or 7-8 lbs. per 1000 sq. ft. to help keep out weeds. For small areas you may spread by hand. For urban or suburban lawns, use a fertilizer spreader set at about 1/3 open and apply the seed in two passes using half the Eco-Lawn seed per pass - one at right angles to the other in a crisscross pattern for complete coverage. For large areas, sow seed via mechanical seeders or hydro-seeding.

Gently rake the seed into soil until just slightly covered (you should see some seed on the surface after raking). Roll the area with an empty to 1/4-full lawn roller (do not fill the roller more than 1/4-full with water so you don't compact soil). Rolling seeds in for good soil contact is especially important if you have any kind of slope to prevent erosion.

We recommend using 5 lbs. of Eco-Lawn seed per 1,000 sq. ft. of area.

After Sowing:

Eco-Lawn germinates in 7 - 14 days (it is quick to germinate and then slow to grow). During the first few weeks, keep as much traffic off the seedbed as possible. The tender, emerging shoots of your Eco-Lawn will not withstand much wear and tear. Once the grass has grown up to 4-5 inches (10-12 cm), you can begin cutting it if you choose to do so. This should be after about 4- 6 weeks of growth. If you have some patches that aren't as thick as the rest, they may not have received enough seed. Don't be afraid to overseed these areas. The longer they stay bare, the more likely that weeds will encroach onto your lawn.

Early Watering:

After seeding, water every day (if it does not rain) for 3 weeks in the early morning for 20/30 minutes or what ever length of time it takes to be moist down to one inch. A good way to know how long it takes to put one inch of water on your lawn is to place an old tuna or cat food can on the area you are watering and time how long it takes to fill the can. Set up an automatic timer if you cannot water regularly yourself. In warmer weather or for very well-drained soils, water a second time for 20 minutes at 3 pm. Never water after 5 pm in the evening to prevent possible fungal diseases. After 3 weeks, cut back to watering every 2 days, for the next 2 weeks. Adjust watering timing and length of time for your soil to stay moist but not have puddles over night. If you seed in the spring, during the first year only, after the first month of watering, water to a depth of one inch, once per week, in the morning. In northern climates If you seed in the fall, after one month of watering you should not need to water again except during times of exceptional drought. In southern climates you will need to water at least once a week during your hottest times. Watering to get your Eco-Lawn seeds to sprout and start growing is essential.

Maintenance:

Once your Eco-Lawn is established, you'll only need to water it during extremely dry periods, if at all. If you feel that you do need to water it, occasional thorough soakings are better than frequent light sprinklings This encourages deep root growth, and makes your turf more drought-tolerant. Fertilizer should be applied sparingly, if at all, in early spring or late summer only. Slow-release, balanced fertilizers with nearly equal portions of nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium are best. This encourages strong root development to keep your turf healthy without excessive top growth that requires mowing. With minimal fertilizing and watering, you'll reap the benefits of reduced maintenance, lower costs and a healthier environment!

A thick healthy lawn is the best defense against weeds, disease, drought and pests. Over-seeding your Eco-Lawn on a yearly basis (again early spring or September is ideal) will foster new growth and keep your Eco-Lawn thick and healthy. Overseeding will also quickly repair a lawn that is thin and patchy from winter or insect damage.

Watering Eco-Lawn:

Please note that if you experience drought conditions in the first year, you will need to water your new lawn during the first season of growth. Once Eco-Lawn has gone through a full season, your watering regime can be reduced. In most parts of North America your established Eco-Lawn will require no watering except in extreme drought conditions. In hot, dry climates watering will be reduced 75% compared to traditional, shallow turfs.

Question: How many gallons of water a year will I need to water my ecolawn™ compared to traditional lawn seed such as Kentucky bluegrass?

Answer: A standard Kentucky bluegrass or perennial rye lawn requires one to two inches of water a week. For a 1,000 square foot lawn, that amounts to more than 100,000 gallons a year! Eco-Lawn requires minimal watering. In central and southern California, no more than 17,500 gallons of water are necessary for a 1,000 sq. ft. lawn from April to October and only 25,600 gallons annually.

Mowing:

The reason you don't need to mow Eco-Lawn often is because it grows very slowly. If you prefer a traditional "cropped lawn look," occasional mowing will be necessary, but far less frequently than with other lawn mixtures. Ensure that your mower has sharp blades to prevent damage to the grass. A mulching mower works best. Set your mower to a minimum 3 inch (7.5 cm) height. Mowing lower than 3 inches (7.5 cm) will cause damage to your Eco-Lawn as it, like all plants, needs to go through the process of photosynthesis in order to live. Never remove more than one third of the top growth. Mowing too short will damage the turf and reduce its vigor. One of the most common lawn problems is people mowing their lawns too short! Left unmown, your Eco-Lawn turfgrass will form a gentle, flowing carpet of grass.

Weeds:

Please note that most weeds germinate in spring and early summer and this will inevitably result in some weed competition with your Eco-Lawn. Weeds will grow much faster and they can sometimes out-compete spring planted seedlings. Once your Eco-Lawn is about 3 inches tall, you can combat those weeds with a variety of organic methods including:

1) Regular mowing which will prevent any weeds growing from forming seeds.

2) Using an organic pre-emergent herbicide such as corn gluten meal (Note: Do not use corn gluten within 5 weeks of sowing new lawn seed.)

3) Easiest of all, overseed with fresh Eco-Lawn seed in spring or fall to crowd out weeds.

4) When your Eco-Lawn is fully mature, it becomes allelopathic, meaning the grass itself emits a natural pre-emergent herbicide that prevents weeds from germinating!

Sustainability

Requires very little water and no chemical fertilizers.

100% Satisfaction Guarantee

We want you to be completely satisfied with every purchase you make. If you are in any way dissatisfied with a product you ordered, we'll exchange it, replace it or refund your money within 30 days of purchase. Simply email us the problem, and we'll take care of you. Certain products have extended warranties (up to 50 years!) that are listed on the particular product page. Please call us at 1-888-451-6752 if you need further clarification.

Additional Information

Size 5 lb.
Coverage 1000 square feet
Key Feature Low maintenance, drought resistant lawn seed
Manufacturer Wildflower Farms
Brand Eco-Lawn
Origin Made in the U.S.A.

Shipping Information

Shipping Details:
Insured against damage or loss while in transit
This Product Ships To:
US Lower 48
Ships Via:
Fedex or UPS

Questions about the Wildflower Farm's Eco-Lawn Grass Seed - 5 lb

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  • From Mary at 5/14/14 2:15 PM
    • I planted my Ecolawn about 3 years ago, on a slope, I have problems with gophers so it doesn't look great at this point. I live in Oakland CA. This winter has been dry and we are facing a drought this summer, it will be very hot . What can I do for my lawn to get me through this summer while I try to get a handle on moles.
    • Here is an article with lots of information about maintaining a healthy lawn through drought conditions:
      http://eartheasy.com/blog/2009/01/drought-survival-for-lawns/
    • Do you find this question helpful?  Yes  No
  • From kay at 5/24/14 4:49 PM
    • when reseeding a lawn with ecolawn, do you recommend aerating the lawn first?
    • Take an ordinary screwdriver and see if you can push it down all the way into your soil. If it is difficult, you may want to consider aerating your lawn. If you decide to aerate, it should be done before seeding your new lawn.
    • Do you find this question helpful?  Yes  No
  • From Dar at 5/29/14 6:26 AM
    • Our lawn is surrounded by perennial gardens. Will the allelopathic quality of the grass have an impact on the garden? Is it advisable to create buffer space between grass and garden? (We removed Norway Maples, which are allelopathic in addition to being generally greedy , and were clearly preventing growth of other plants.) Thank you.
    • Interesting question. When your Eco-Lawn is fully mature, it becomes allelopathic, which means that the grass itself emits a natural, pre-emergent herbicide that prevents other plants (weeds) from germinating. Your established plants will not be affected.

      It is not essential to create a barrier between lawn and flower bed, but it is useful for practical reasons, i.e. space to use the weedeater or edge trimmer without harming anything growing in adjacent beds. But for allelopathic concerns, you do not need to create a buffer space between grass and garden.
    • Do you find this question helpful?  Yes  No

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