Another key to high production (or, if you want and try hard enough, potentially “colossally” high production of cukes_) that some may not realize is vital, is keeping each and every vine picked reasonably on time: If you let even one cucumber get fully mature (overmature really_) into overly big size or maturity that lets it start maturing its seeds trying to form inside it, that particular vine is very likely to nearly shut down production of any more cukes. The built in goal of plants like this, is more one of maturing seeds inside the “fruits”–in other words, achieving the goal of potential reproduction–it is to produce a lot of “fruits.” They’ll settle for the minimal production if allowed to , if allowed to fully mature (over-mature_) any of the fruits into ones with the matured seeds inside that are the plants’ real goal. But prevent any cukes from overmaturing that way, and they’ll (until frost or other cause of end of season growth_) be likely to keep the fruits coming like there’s no tomorrow.

Pretty much the same (all of the above-picking and production, site need including sunny spot, decent soil/decent watering needs_) for most all the squashes (except pumpkins somewhat , since they can handle somewhat poorer soils and some amount of shade._).

The article, and some commenters, praise peppers as highly productive. In some areas, “maybe” so–maybe for all I know, areas where the soil leans toward basic instead of acidic. I do think that for the many many in areas of acidic soil, peppers , at least sweet ones and especially the “bell” type mentioned, are more likely to prove fairly much the opposite: rarely productive and if anything, on the difficult and tricky side to get more than minimal success with. I’m in the mostly acid-soil/acid rain Northeast, and only rarely do I see _sweet_ peppers doing very well anywhere around here. Only a few gardeners seem to have figured out the right “tricks” they apparently need here, to do well.

Now, that being said, I don’t necessarily rule out , as a reasonably decent choice if wanting high production , another kind of pepper: “hot” peppers. It seems pretty clear that by and large, most any hot pepper variety is much more cooperative with less rich or less humus -filled soil, less careful growing methods and such. Here anyway, and naturally i suspect “in general” in most places elsewhere, the “hot” pepper varieties are a much much better bet (if you like them and will in fact be apt to put them to a lot of use_); they’re just much more cooperative and responsive to average , maybe non-expert and casual, efforts at growing them. sunny, warm to hot spot for growing and even just half-decent efforts at helping them grow, are about all most hot types seem to need to respond quite well.

Most areas of the country “will” need, with peppers, to get plants instead of just seeds, or alternatively get seeds and grow their own future transplants indoors for a couple months before transplanting.

With cukes, the relatively larger sizes of transplants can be worthwhile (as opposed to little tiny cucumber transplants_) but simply buying and planting seeds is quite apt to bring successful results almost as fast _( as to first fruits and such_)than going with transplants. and in the long run, seeding cukes instead of transplanting plants of them, if anything is fairly apt to bring a higher level of harvest per plant, due to seeded plants never having had the setbacks and likely partial stunting, that cuke transplants usually end up with.

By the way, “if” you have storage space for long term storage, “or” simply use a lot of the item–”and” are at least a little versed in gardening principles–you might to keep in mind that some of the root vegetables–almost all of which are normally planted from seeds that in their cases especially tend to be very very low cost–can be (various types of root vegetables, I mean_) quite notably high in production. The most outstanding example for most, might be carrots. If you have the discount ten cent to twenty five cent packages where you are, then two or three of those packages could probably pretty easily bring you buckets full of carrots by the end of the growing season. In limey or high humus soils, same with beets (buy two or three times, at least, of seed though with beets_). Radishes can be very productive too, though they may need a little more care than their reputation for super-easy growing, would suggest “and” they’re best grown either mostly just in spring or fall, “or” if in summer in most areas, grown using mulch and plentiful watering and looking after.

“String” (snap_) beans can be pretty productive so long as given basic care and watering and , as usual, kept picked without allowing much of any overmature beans happening…although they (except pole types_) aren’t so much constantly producing so much as capable of producing about two flushes of growth , after which they’re about done (except pole types_) no matter what you do. Can grow quite well in non-rich soil and may produce at least some picking in soil distinctly on the thin or poor side so long as it’s not ridiculously poor or pure sand. (String beans one of the best “beginner’s” (including children’s) choices .

Saving cash on Fresh but also canned toms. Not yo mention the canned salsa and ketchup we make.

How about sugar snap peas? They cost a small fortune in the stores, but produce like mad in the garden. Leave them on the vine for pod peas. I think these are the ones that are the best money savers for me.